| BASEMENTS SUGGESTIONS |
| Basement - Damp MUSTY SMELL In many homes musty basement dampness can be a problem. The reasons for the dampness may vary, however the underlying problem is always the same - water penetration. The first step in remedying the situation is to reduce the moisture inside the basement. If it is dry outside open the air vents or windows to reduce the moisture level in the basement. If this is not practical use a dehumidifier. In this situation a dehumidifier works extremely well, removing the excessive moisture from the air. Set the dehumidifier control at about half, while keeping the temperature in the basement above 60 degrees. As the air becomes dryer, mold will stop growing, and the musty smell will usually disappear. Mold may be present on stored goods even if the basement appears to be dry, keep stored items away from the outside walls that may be damp. It will be necessary to wash down the mold covered areas with a bleach solution to kill the living mold. If the outside drainage is sloping away from the foundation and there are working gutters with downspouts that are draining away from the house the next thing to look at will be the concrete foundation walls. If the walls have been painted it will be impossible to apply any sealant that penetrates the concrete without power washing or sandblasting the paint off the walls. Topical sealants should not be used as they will not remedy the situation, for a lasting repair use a penetrating sealant that will bond with the concrete in the wall. For sealant information, see Sealants NOTE: Mould can pose a serious health problem if let get out of control, particularly for those who suffer from allergies. DAMP PREVENTION This sealant works by penetrating in 3 to 4 inches into wet or dry concrete and bonds with the concrete making it both stronger and non porous. Originally this product was designed stop radon gas from penetrating through the concrete walls or floor of the basement. Radon Seal A clear penetrating sealant that bonds with the chemicals in concrete making it non porous. Also works to waterproof a damp basement or floor. Can be applied using a brush or deck sprayer. Cannot be applied to previously painted or sealed surfaces. Radon Seal is available at 1-800-472-0603 ask for Joe Cumpelik. Basement - Damp Remedy # 2 - Foundation If you have tried to rectify the basement damp by doing everything listed in remedy #1 and there is still a damp or mold problem, continue here. Concrete block foundation. Once concrete block gets cracks or starts to deteriorate it is very hard to stop the deterioration, without stopping the water penetration that is doing the damage. You will want to consider having a waterproof barrier and drain system installed on the outside of your home. To do this a trench is dug around the house; this trench is dug down below the floor level of the basement. Plastic drainpipe is then installed to take the water away from the house. In cases where the pipe does not have the ability to drain away from the house a sump pump is installed (outside). The pipe is then covered with pea gravel. The complete foundation is sprayed with a tar type sealant and sheets of Styrofoam with special water channels are secured to the wall. The Styrofoam sheeting creates a solid barrier that funnels water into the drain at the base of the foundation. Do not use any system that deals with the problem by managing it on the inside, these systems are only a cosmetic repair that do not stop the deterioration of the block foundation. Note: Epoxy or polyurethane crack sealant is not very successful at stopping water penetration on block foundations. Poured concrete foundation. Poured concrete foundations tend to have few problems that cannot be solved easily. Over time with settling cracks may appear that let in a small amount of water. On this type of foundation, epoxy or polyurethane crack sealant is very successful at stopping water penetration through cracks in the concrete. If the walls are damp they may need to be sealed, and an external barrier and drain system installed. Wet floors. This problem is usually solved when outside water or foundation wall problems are resolved. If the problem is serious and persists, a series of drains connected to a sump pump may need to be installed. Note: We strongly suggest you do not use over-the-counter waterproofing sealant! In most cases they fail and will have to be removed adding additional cost and aggravation! Basement - Damp Remedy # 1 - "Outside" Most people's first thought is to call in a professional basement- waterproofing contractor, and this may eventually become necessary. Before doing that, attempt to stop the dampness by removing or reducing the problem, which is probably poor water management and drainage outside. This will need to be done anyway. Is all the siding attached, are all the windows properly fitted. In many cases water enters through rotten windows. Is the dryer vented to the outside, or has the pipe become clogged or disconnected. Are all the gutters secure, do they overflow? Gutters are needed along the bottom edge of all roofs, and downspouts are essential. Inspect all drains from downspouts and drains in basement window wells making sure that they are not blocked. Add clear plastic window well covers to all basement windows. Begin by diverting or piping away all the water coming from the downspouts. Three feet is a start, 10 feet would be good, but the further it can be piped or diverted away from the building the better. Re-grade the landscaping making sure that it all slopes away from the house, even if it is only a gentle slope. Flower beds should be higher than the lawn. Lawn is better than flower beds because it does not let as much water through. Patios (concrete slabs) often sink or settle and then channel water towards the house. These would need to be removed or replaced. The driveway needs to slope away from the building. Any area surrounding the house that tends flood or appears waterlogged after it rains should be drained. If your neighbors property drains on to your property, consider installing a drain or ditch that would break the flow of water before it reaches your house. BRICK WATERPROOFING Hydrozo Inviroseal 77 (made by Thoro) On newer brick apply once every 5 to 10 years. On older brick, where the surface is porous the sealant will have to be applied more frequently, such as every 4 to 7 years. The length of time between coats will depend on the porosity of the brick and weather conditions (prevailing winds, etc.). Chimneys will need the sealant applied more often than the brick work of the house. Chimneys tend to deteriorate due the fact that they get wet and stay wet for longer. Blowing winds then force rain water into small cracks in the bricks or the pointing. Any freezing will then cause the bricks and the mortar to crack This sealant can also be applied to any stucco finish around the base of the house or on the chimney. The sealant will need to be reapplied when water no longer forms "beads" on the wet surface. The sealant penetrates the brickwork and forms an invisible barrier protecting the brick against moisture penetration and attacks of airborne pollutants. What's more, the sealant resists dirt accumulation and retards the formation of efflorescence. It is also breathable and water-based. Apply using a hand deck sprayer. Available locally: Janelle Concrete & Masonry Equipment in Dayton, 866-9 FOUNDATION CRACK REPAIR Here are some suggested sealants for crack repair in foundation walls that are leaking water. These products do not strengthen the wall, they stop water penetration: SYMONS Res Con 304 epoxy crack sealant. Uses a special two-part caulking gun. Janelle has the caulking gun available for rental, it is approximately $10 per day. THORO Water Plug A hole or crack filler that can be used in wet areas. Both products available locally: Janelle Concrete & Masonry Equipment in Dayton, 866-9111 NOTE: For serious foundation problems seek the advice of a professional basement or foundation contractor. Foundation SINKING SLAB-TYPE FOUNDATIONS In rare cases a concrete slab foundation may fail. Usually this is due to bad drainage, ground movement, subsidence or poor construction. The problem will usually be noticed when doors that used to open and close start sticking, or a gap appears between the skirting board and the floor/carpet. With brick construction a small crack may begin in the foundation and slowly work its way up the wall as the building moves and the crack widens. On timber frame construction the problem is not as readily apparent, only a small crack at the foundation may be visible. This type of foundation problem can be repaired. First of all, any drainage or water problems need to be addressed. Water that flows toward the house or tends to pool near the building, as well as water from down spouts, needs to be drained away from the building. A concrete leveling company that can "mud jack" or lift the slab will need to be hired. They can usually repair the foundation in one day without too much disturbance to your home. The work to raise the slab involves lifting the carpets and drilling one or more small holes through the foundation slab. A special concrete mix under pressure is then pumped into the area under the slab. Raising it and returning it to its original position. In cases where the ground under a portion of the building is unstable and "mud jacking" alone may not be adequate, piers can be sunk. These piers are then attached to a bracket mounted along the outside edge of the foundation’s slab. This holds the building in place, giving it the rigidity and structural integrity necessary. |