Home To-Do List: Spring Dreaming, Start Cleaning
It's time to get moving on spring-cleaning projects.
By Roy Berendsohn
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Things sure slow down in the winter, but now that cold season is drawing to a close, it's time to get
cracking, especially on outdoor projects. But get your heaviest work out of the way first, well in
advance of the hot weather.

Outdoors

1. Dig out and remove rotted or damaged fence posts, mailbox posts, overgrown shrubs, or damaged
shrubs.

2. Remove winter-worn branches from trees and shrubs.

3. Make your first application of spring fertilizer. Spread seed in southern climates.

4. Schedule small engine tune-ups or perform tune-ups after buying spark plugs, air filter elements,
crankcase oil, two-stroke oil, gas stabilizer, fresh gasoline, lawnmower blade, string trimmer blades or
line.

5. Sharpen your shears, hoe, and shovel, then pump up that wheelbarrow tire.

6. Repair ice-damaged gutters or downspouts.

Indoors

1. As soon as the weather permits, by all means open your windows and start painting inside.

2. Tidy up behind and under the dryer, then clean the dryer vent.

3. Make room to store winter equipment and clothing by taking advantage of wasted spaces in attics,
crawlspaces, closets, and the garage.

4. Clean your coffeemaker with vinegar or scale-removal product sold at hardware stores.

5. Tune up that kitchen range:


Remove and clean under reflecting pans.

Run self-cleaning cycle.

Once clean, use an oven thermometer to check your oven's temperature relative to its dial setting.
Temperature should conform to high- and low-limit ranges as stated by the manufacturer. If it's not,
purchase a service manual and either adjust the thermostat, replace your temperature sensor, or
perform other needed repairs.

Remove that pots-and-pans drawer and clean under the kitchen range. If need be, clean your drawer
runner.

Around the Country

Southern and Southeastern states: Apply pre-emergent herbicide/fertilizer blend. After the period
stated on the bag, apply lawn seed.

Middle Atlantic: Check with the agricultural extension office or nursery in your region; this may be your
time to prune shrubs that flower in summer and fall.

Southern New England: Construct temporary fencing to keep deer from ruining early-budding plants.

Pacific Northwest: Apply bulb food when growth begins to push through warming soil.

All areas free of snow and frost: Turn over the compost pile, flower beds, and all other beds that do
not have bulbs.

Quick Home Repair Fixes
14 shortcut repairs to keep your house in shape -- from top to bottom.
By Joseph Truini
1 | 2 |  Next >
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Whether you live in a renovated Victorian or a modern raised ranch, one thing is certain: Maintenance
never stops. Of course, you could hire the local handyman to make repairs and put his kids through
college. Or, you can tackle problems when they appear--and before they get out of hand. To help out,
we've assembled 14 shortcuts for household woes that start at the roof over your head and end at the
floor under your feet. They're all quick and easy fixes--and they'll help you keep the pros at bay.

1. Roof Shingle Repair
Strong winds and fallen tree branches can crack or rip asphalt roof shingles. If you fix a damaged
shingle tab before it tears off the roof, you won't have to replace the entire shingle. To make the
repair, you need a tube of roofing cement and a piece of copper or aluminum flashing. Cut the flashing
about 1 in. narrower than the ripped tab, and about 4 in. longer, so that it extends under the tabs on
either side. Use a flat pry bar to carefully loosen the damaged tab and the tabs to the left and right.
Next, apply two or three thick beads of roofing cement to the surface beneath the shingle. Slip the
flashing underneath and apply more roofing cement on top of the flashing. Press the tab down to
adhere the flashing to the roof.

2. Roof Runoff Remedy
The lower edge of a roof should extend beyond the fascia board by at least 3/4 in. That way, when
rain runs down the roof it drains into the gutter. If the overhang falls short, water can drip behind the
gutter, leading to rotted fascia, peeling paint and stained siding. To fix an overhang that's too short,
buy some aluminum drip edge (aka drip-cap flashing). It's typically sold in 8-ft. lengths, and can be cut
with tin snips or even poultry shears. Slide the wide, flat flange of the flashing under the first course of
shingles and adjust it to extend over the gutter. Secure the drip edge with a few short roofing nails and
seal each nailhead with a dollop of roofing cement.

3. Easy-Rinse Rain Gutters
No one likes to clean gutters. But you can make the job easier and safer (no ladder required) with a
long spray wand made from a 1/2-in.-dia. x 10-ft.-long PVC pipe. Start by cutting two 6-in. lengths of
pipe. Then, use PVC cement to join these short sections and two 90-degree elbows with what is now a
9-ft.-long pipe, forming a J-shaped hook. At the short end of the hook, glue on a solid endcap. Drill
three 1/8-in.-dia. holes in the cap. Glue a threaded adapter onto the opposite end of the pipe and
attach a garden hose.

Place the short end of the J-shaped hook inside the gutter, and turn on the hose. As you walk along
the house, high-pressure streams of water will rinse the gutter clean.

4. Wood Shingle Switch
A typical wood-shingle house is covered with thousands of individual shingles. And over time, it's
inevitable that a few will split or become damaged.

To replace a shingle, first use a chisel and hammer to split it into several narrow pieces, then yank
them out with pliers. Slip a hacksaw blade under the shingle above, and cut through the nails that held
the old shingle in place. Next, use a utility knife to trim a new shingle to match the width of the space.
Slide the shingle in place and tap it to within 1 in. of its final position. Drive in two galvanized cedar
shingle nails, at an upward angle, directly below the butt edge of the shingle above. Then, use a wood
block and hammer to tap the new shingle up into place. As the shingle slides in place, it'll pull the
nailheads up and behind the shingle above.

5. Fill-'er-Up Tub Trick
Most bathtubs are equipped with lever-action stoppers instead of old-fashioned plugs. The problem is,
many stoppers don't form a watertight seal against the drain. Fortunately, the fix is easy. First,
unscrew the round overflow plate from the end of the tub. Gently pull on the plate until the attached
linkage assembly slips out from behind the tub. The linkage is composed of several metal pieces,
including a threaded rod. Turn the rod two or three revolutions to lengthen the entire linkage
assembly. Replace the linkage and screw the overflow plate to the tub wall. Raise the control lever on
the overflow plate and turn on the water. Check to see if the water remains in the tub. If it's still
draining out, remove the overflow plate and lengthen the linkage a bit more.

6. Set Your Doors Free
If you have a door that binds at one corner, try this fix. Close the door and inspect the clearance along
the sides and top to see if it's misaligned in the frame. If so, install a thin cardboard shim or plastic
playing card under one of the hinge leaves to adjust the alignment. If necessary, add a second or third
shim until the door swings freely.

7. Floppy Backsplash Fix
Many kitchen backsplashes aren't nailed or screwed to the countertop, but glued to the wall. In time,
they can pull free, exposing the wall behind the counter to water damage. To reattach a loose
backsplash, first use a putty knife to scrape off old glue. Apply two beads of construction adhesive to
the rear of the backsplash, and a bead of clear silicone sealant along its bottom edge. Set the
backsplash in position and press it against the wall and counter. To hold the backsplash while the
adhesive cures, wedge 1 x 2 strips diagonally between the top edge of the backsplash and the
underside of the upper kitchen wall cabinet.

8. Gaining an Edge
Here's a quick trick for gluing table or counter edging back in place. Apply glue to the mating surfaces
and tighten a C-clamp at the damaged area. Use pieces of wood under the clamp's jaws to prevent
marring the surface. Then, insert two tapered wood shims from opposite directions between the clamp
and the edging. Tap in the shims to hold the edge in place while the glue dries.

9. Shower Stabilizer
It's not unusual for a shower head to become loose. This typically occurs when the metal strap
securing the water-supply pipe pulls free. Here's how to remedy the situation without ripping open the
wall. First, pull the round trim ring away from the wall. Next, inject foam sealant into the cavity around
the pipe. This stuff expands, so apply it sparingly. Push the trim ring back in place and hold it for a
minute or two to contain the foam sealant. The sealant will eventually harden, effectively locking the
shower head in position.

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10. Cure for Recurring Cracks
Hairline wall cracks that reappear, even after repeated spackling and painting, can be fixed for good.
First, widen the crack slightly (1) by scraping it with the pointed end of a can opener. Remove all dust
(2) and cover the crack with 2-in.-wide adhesive-backed fiberglass mesh drywall tape (3). Cut the
tape, if necessary, to follow a zigzagging crack, but don't overlap the pieces. Use a 4-in. drywall knife
to apply a thin coat of joint compound over the tape (4). The next day, sand lightly and follow with two
wider, thinner coats of compound.

11. Picking on Loose Knobs
When a wooden knob comes loose from a door or drawer because the screwhole is stripped, remove
the knob and stuff the screwhole with toothpicks and glue. Use a utility knife to trim the toothpicks
flush. Then, replace the knob--you don't have to wait for the glue to dry--and carefully tighten the
screw.

12. Faulty Dishwasher Tuneup
If your dishwasher seems to run perfectly yet leaves your dishes dirty, there may be a simple fix. Open
the dishwasher and remove the lower tray to access the spray arms. Gently clean the holes at the
ends of the arms with a steel skewer or an awl. Don't use a wooden or plastic instrument that might
break and get stuck in a hole.

13. Lifting Damaged Floor Tile
When a vinyl floor tile becomes stained or damaged, you can easily remove it with a stiff-blade putty
knife and an electric heat gun. Warm the tile until the adhesive softens (between 5 and 10 minutes).
Start prying up the tile at a corner, and continue to apply heat above and below the tile until the
adhesive releases. Scrape the subfloor clean, creating a smooth surface for a new tile.

14. Silencing Squeaky Wood Floors
Wood expands and contracts with changes in the seasons. And although this movement is slight, it
can cause annoying squeaks to occur throughout the house, especially if you have hardwood floors.
Here's an effective way to silence a squeak--if the space underneath the floor is accessible. First,
locate the squeak from below by having someone walk across the floor. Once you've pinpointed the
spot, spread glue on both sides of a thin wooden shim, and tap it into the space between the floor joist
and plywood subfloor. Be careful not to drive the shim in too far; you don't want to raise the floor. The
goal is to fill any voids that allow movement.

Must-Do Maintenance

Home maintenance isn't restricted to repairs. Here's a checklist of items every homeowner should get
to regularly--even if that squeaky floor never gets fixed.

1. Test your garage door opener monthly to ensure that it reverses when it hits an obstruction or when
its sensor beam is interrupted.

2. Vacuum out the clothes dryer's exhaust duct at least once a year. If the duct is plastic, replace it.
Rigid sheetmetal duct is best.

3. Replace furnace filters quarterly, or as recommended by the furnace manufacturer.

4. Test all GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) outlets monthly. Press the test button and use a
voltage tester to make sure the power goes off.

5. Clean leaves and debris from a central air conditioner seasonally.

6. Once a year, vacuum the refrigerator coils at the rear of the appliance.

7. Have the fireplace chimney inspected and cleaned annually.

8. Inspect window and door caulking and weatherstripping yearly.

9. Replace the batteries in smoke detectors yearly. And remember, even hard-wired smoke detectors
have batteries that must be replaced.